Macramé plant hangers add warmth, texture, and height to your decor while keeping plants off surfaces. This intermediate-friendly tutorial walks you through planning, knotting, and styling a custom hanger that fits your pot perfectly. You’ll learn the core knots (Lark’s Head, Square, Half/Spiral, Gathering), how to size and cut cords, and how to troubleshoot for an even, professional finish. Whether you prefer clean modern lines or boho fringe, you’ll find variations and tips to customize your piece for any room.

Materials and Tools

Cord: 3–5 mm single-strand cotton cord is easiest to manipulate and brush out; 4 mm is a sweet spot for sturdy hangers with defined knots. Braided cord resists fraying and holds structure; three-strand rope gives a rustic look and firmer knots.
Ring: 5–7 cm (2–2.75 in) wooden or metal ring for hanging. A wooden dowel or S-hook also works.
Measuring tools: Tape measure or ruler; masking tape or washi tape for marking lengths on your work surface.
Cutting: Sharp scissors; optional rotary cutter for long, even cuts.
Optional embellishments: Wooden beads with large bores (8–12 mm), brass rings, colored accent cord, leather wrap.
Finishing: Fabric glue or clear craft glue to secure ends; pet brush or comb for fringe.
Workspace: A hook on a wall, garment rack, or over-the-door hanger; or use a clipboard/piece of cardboard with clips to anchor the ring while working.

Tip: Cotton cord stretches slightly under tension. Build with consistent tension, and allow for a small amount of stretch, especially for heavier pots.

Plan Your Hanger

Before you cut cords, plan for pot size, desired length, and pattern details.

Pot and plant: Decide the pot diameter (top) and height. Typical hangers cradle pots 12–20 cm (5–8 in) wide. If using a pot without a drainage tray, line it to protect the cord from moisture.
Finished length: Measure from ceiling hook to bottom of tassel. A common length is 90–110 cm (35–43 in).
Arm count: Most classic hangers use 4 arms, each arm consisting of 4 cords (2 working cords + 2 fillers), for a total of 16 running cords after mounting.
Cord length formula (rule of thumb): Cord length per strand ≈ finished hanger length × 4 + 30–60 cm (12–24 in) for knots and tassel. For thicker cord, add more allowance. It’s better to cut long and trim.

Example plan:

Pot: 16 cm (6.5 in) diameter, 14 cm (5.5 in) tall.
Finished length: 100 cm (39 in).
Cord: 4 mm single-strand cotton.
Cut 8 cords at 4.5 m (15 ft) each. After mounting with Lark’s Head, you’ll have 16 running cords. Cut 1 extra 70–90 cm (28–35 in) cord for the final gathering knot; a shorter 40–60 cm (16–24 in) cord for the top wrap.

Knot Techniques You’ll Use

Mount: Lark’s Head Knot

Fold a cord in half to make a bight (loop).
Pass the bight through the ring from front to back.
Pull the two tail ends through the bight and snug them down. That’s one Lark’s Head; repeat to add all cords to the ring.

Tip: Alternate the direction (cow hitch) or flip every few cords if you want a balanced front/back texture, but consistency is key to a tidy top.

Structure: Square Knot (Left and Right)

Setup: Work with 4 cords—two center cords are fillers; outer two are working cords.
Left-facing square knot (L-SK):
1. Bring the left working cord over fillers and under the right working cord.
2. Bring the right working cord under fillers and up through the loop on the left; tighten evenly.
3. Reverse: Right working cord goes over fillers and under left working cord; left goes under fillers and up through the right loop; snug.
Right-facing square knot (R-SK) begins on the right. Alternating L-SK and R-SK keeps your sennit straight; repeating the same side creates a gentle twist.

Texture: Half Knot (Spiral)

Make only the first half of a square knot repeatedly (e.g., always start left). The sennit will spiral naturally. Great for decorative arms.

Finish: Gathering/Wrapping Knot

Cut a separate cord (40–90 cm).
Lay a short tail downward along your bundle; wrap the long end neatly around the bundle 5–10 times.
Feed the long end through the loop at the bottom, then pull the top short tail to draw the loop inside the wraps.
Trim tails flush and secure with a dab of glue if needed.

Pro tip: Practice each knot on a scrap to gauge how many repeats create your desired length using your specific cord.

Step-by-Step: Classic Four-Arm Plant Hanger

1) Cut and Prep Cords

Cut 8 cords at 4.5 m (15 ft) each for a ~1 m finished hanger. Tape the cord ends to prevent fraying during setup.
Cut two extra cords for wraps: one at ~50 cm (20 in) for the top, one at ~80 cm (31 in) for the bottom.

2) Mount to the Ring

Secure the ring to a hook at chest height.
Fold each long cord in half and attach all 8 with Lark’s Head knots to the ring. You now have 16 running strands.

Evening tip: Comb the cords gently with your fingers and align them so they fall straight; this reduces later tangling.

3) Top Neck and Decorative Section

Optional top gathering: Use the short wrap cord to create a 1–2 cm gathering knot directly under the ring. This cleans up the transition and hides the Lark’s Heads.
Decorative sennit: Using any four adjacent cords, tie 6–10 alternating square knots (about 5–8 cm / 2–3 in). Repeat around so all cords are incorporated. Alternatively, make a 6–10 cm (2–4 in) Half-Knot Spiral for a twist.

Tension check: Hold a ruler next to your sennit to keep all arms equal length. Minor differences add up.

4) Divide into Arms

Group the 16 cords into 4 sets of 4 cords each. Clip or tape off groups you’re not working on to avoid mixing strands.

5) First Row for Each Arm

Measure 12–15 cm (5–6 in) down from the end of your decorative section. Place a piece of tape or mark with a pin.
Tie 1–3 square knots in each arm at that mark. All arms should have the same number of knots and spacing.

Variation: If you want a lighter, open look, use a single square knot per arm here. For a stronger cradle, use two.

6) Create the Cradle with Alternating Knots

Second row: To form the basket that holds the pot, make alternating square knots:
- Take 2 cords from one arm and 2 cords from the neighboring arm.
- Measure 7–10 cm (3–4 in) down from the first row and tie a square knot. Repeat around the hanger, connecting all neighboring arms.
Check with your pot: Slip the pot inside periodically. The cords should begin to cradle the pot’s shoulder, not just the rim.

7) Add Depth with Additional Rows

For taller pots or a snug fit, add a third row of alternating square knots 5–8 cm (2–3 in) below the second row.
Keep intervals consistent to maintain symmetry. Stagger spacing slightly tighter if the pot tapers sharply.

Tip: If your pot is heavy or ceramic, consider adding one more row or doubling a few knots to distribute weight.

8) Join and Finish the Bottom

Gather all cords below the final row. Smooth them so they lie flat and untwisted.
Use your longer wrap cord to tie a gathering knot 5–10 cm (2–4 in) below the last row. Make 6–10 tight wraps for a neat barrel.
Tug each cord gently to confirm they’re captured securely within the wrap.

9) Trim and Style the Tassel

Decide tassel length: 10–20 cm (4–8 in) is common. Trim evenly.
Options:
- Brush out single-strand cord for a soft fringe.
- Leave braided rope unbrushed for a structured tassel.
- Slide a large wooden bead above the gathering knot before wrapping for an accent.

10) Load Test and Hang

Place the empty pot first, then add the plant. Check level from multiple angles; adjust by gently retightening any looser knots.
Hang from a secure ceiling hook or wall bracket rated for the load.

Safety note: When in doubt, overbuild—use sturdier cord or add an extra row of knots for heavier pots.

Styling Variations and Design Ideas

Two-tone cords: Use two colors in alternating arms for subtle striping. Or mount half your cords in color A and the rest in color B to create a color-blocked cradle.
Mixed textures: Combine square-knot sennits with spiral sections for visual contrast. A 5–7 cm spiral above the cradle pairs well with a block of square knots.
Beads and rings: Thread beads onto filler cords before tying square knots to lock them in place. Interpose a small brass ring between the top sennit and arms for a modern accent.
Minimalist vs. boho: Minimalist hangers use fewer knots, longer negative space, and a short tassel. Boho styles feature multiple rows, beads, and a lush brushed fringe.
Double-decker: For taller spaces, create a second cradle below the first by repeating alternating rows and a second gathering knot.

Pro tip: Keep a small sketch with measurements and knot counts. Mirroring counts in each arm ensures balance.

Best Practices for Clean, Even Results

Measure as you go: Place temporary tape flags on cords at target distances. It’s faster than remeasuring each knot.
Maintain even tension: Pull working cords with consistent pressure. Over-tightening on one side makes knots lean.
Keep cords organized: Clip unused arms with binder clips. Rotate the hanger periodically to avoid twisting the main bundle.
Pre-stretch: Give cords a gentle stretch before you start to reduce post-hang sag.
Finish with glue wisely: A tiny dab inside the gathering knot tails prevents loosening without visible residue.

Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls

Uneven arms: If one arm looks shorter, it likely has tighter knots. Loosen and retie a couple knots to redistribute length, or add a compensating half-knot where it’s too long.
Tilting pot: The cradle row heights may differ. Recheck your measurements; retie the highest knot slightly lower to level the basket.
Ring rotation: If the top swivels and twists cords, add a small swivel hook between ceiling hardware and ring, or tie a slightly longer top sennit to reduce torque.
Frayed ends while working: Tape ends or use heat-shrink on synthetic cords. For natural cotton, re-tape after significant trimming.
Cord shortage near the end: Convert the last few square knots into half knots (less cord-hungry) or shorten tassel length. In future builds, add 10–15% to your cord length.

Care and Maintenance

Indoor use: Cotton is best indoors. Keep away from splashing water and direct sun to prevent fading and mildew.
Cleaning: Dust with a lint roller or handheld vacuum on low. Spot clean with mild soap; avoid soaking the gathering knots.
Plant care: Use a plastic liner or cachepot to protect cord from damp soil. Allow pots to drain before returning to the hanger.

Quick Reference: Measurements for a Standard Hanger

Cord: 4 mm single-strand cotton.
Cut: 8 cords × 4.5 m (15 ft); 1 × 80 cm (31 in) wrap; 1 × 50 cm (20 in) wrap.
Top: Optional 1–2 cm gathering knot under ring.
Decorative sennit: 6–10 square knots or 6–10 cm spiral.
First row (each arm): 12–15 cm below decor.
Second row (alternating): 7–10 cm below first row.
Third row (optional): 5–8 cm below second row.
Bottom gathering: 5–10 cm below last row, with 6–10 wraps.
Tassel: Trim to 10–20 cm.

Use this as a starting template; adjust spacing for your pot’s height and taper.

Next-Level Ideas to Explore

Macramé math: Track how many knots per 10 cm your cord yields; build a personal reference for consistent results across projects.
Pattern blocks: Alternate blocks of 3 square knots with 3 cm of space for a geometric ladder look.
Decorative finishing: Use a constrictor knot over the gathering knot tail for a secure, sculptural finish; or wrap with a contrasting leather lace.

With a thoughtful plan, even tension, and a few core knots, you can produce a custom macramé plant hanger that fits your space and showcases your plant’s shape. Iterate with different cords, colors, and patterns to develop your signature style. Happy knotting!

How to Make a DIY Macramé Plant Hanger: Materials, Knot Techniques, and Styling Tips